Mr. Color Paint Colors

Mr. Color Paint Colors: Complete Reference

Introduction

Mr. Color by GSI Creos is the gold standard of lacquer model paint — solvent-based, rock-hard finish, and the smoothest spray of any modeling paint. The FS-calibrated 300 series and Metal Color NMF line make it the top choice for serious military aircraft modelers. Requires a respirator and ventilation. Priced at ~$3-4 per 10ml bottle.

About Mr. Color paints

Mr. Color is made by GSI Creos (formerly Gunze Sangyo) in Japan. These paints have been the backbone of Japanese kit building since the 1970s. When you open a Hasegawa, Fine Molds, or Bandai kit, the painting instructions call out Mr. Color numbers — just as Western kits default to Tamiya. But Mr. Color’s influence extends well beyond Japan. Serious military modelers worldwide reach for Mr. Color when accuracy, durability, and finish quality matter most.

The formula is solvent-based lacquer. That means stronger fumes than acrylics — you need a respirator and ventilation — but the payoff is substantial: Mr. Color sprays smoother, dries harder, adheres better, and produces a finer finish than any acrylic on the market. The paint cures to a rock-hard film that resists handling, masking tape, and enamel washes without lifting. For large-surface spraying (fuselages, wings), there’s simply nothing better.

The catalog is organized into several sub-ranges. The original C-series (C1 through roughly C175) covers general colors plus early military matches. The 300 series (C301-C400+) provides precision-calibrated colors keyed to specific Federal Standard and British Standard numbers. The Metal Color line (C211-C218) offers buffable metallic lacquers for natural metal finishes. And for Japanese aircraft, Mr. Color is the definitive reference — their IJN and IJA colors were developed in consultation with Japanese historians and manufacturer records.

Mr. Color is priced at ~$3-4 per 10ml bottle, available from most online hobby retailers that stock Japanese products. US availability is solid through hobby shops and importers.

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WWII US Aircraft Colors — Quick Reference

Mr. Color’s lacquer formula and FS-calibrated 300 series make it an excellent choice for WWII American aircraft. The harder finish handles masking and washes better than acrylics, and the clear coats are best-in-class.

Olive Drab / Neutral Gray — USAAF 1941-1943

For camouflaged P-40 Warhawks, P-47 Thunderbolts, early P-51B Mustangs, B-17F Flying Fortresses, and B-25 Mitchells:

Role	Paint	Accuracy	Tips
Olive Drab (upper)	C304 Olive Drab FS34087	300-series, FS-calibrated — targets the darker WWII OD standard	Preferred over C12 for accuracy
Olive Drab (alternate)	C12 or C38 Olive Drab	C12 is semi-gloss, C38 is flat — slightly different hues	C38 preferred for faded/weathered OD
Neutral Gray (under)	C13 Neutral Gray	FS 36251 — clean, reliable match	—
Interior Green (cockpit)	C27 or C351 Zinc Chromate Type1	Both target ANA 611 precisely	C27 is semi-gloss (as-manufactured); C351 is flat (weathered look)
Zinc Chromate Yellow (primer)	C352 Chromate Yellow Primer FS33481	FS-calibrated match	Landing gear bays, wheel wells, visible primer areas
Anti-glare panel	C33 Flat Black	Dead flat black — accurate	Forward of windscreen
Insignia Blue	C326 Blue FS15044	Gloss, FS-calibrated	For flat insignia, add C182 Flat Clear
Insignia White	C316 White FS17875	Gloss, FS-calibrated	—
Insignia Red	C327 Red FS11136	Gloss, FS-calibrated	—

Mr. Color’s advantage here: The lacquer formula means you can mask aggressively over cured OD without lifting — critical for demarcation lines and invasion stripes. Acrylics can pull up under tape; Mr. Color won’t.

USN Tri-Color — Navy 1943-1944

For F6F Hellcats, F4U Corsairs, SBD Dauntless dive bombers, and TBF/TBM Avengers:

Role	Paint	Accuracy	Tips
Sea Blue (upper)	C14 Navy Blue	FS 35042 / ANA 607 — no green cast, clean navy blue	—
Intermediate Blue (sides)	C366 Intermediate Blue FS35164	300-series, flat finish — preferred over C72 for accuracy	—
Insignia White (under)	C316 White FS17875	ANA 601	—
Interior Green (cockpit)	C27 Interior Green	ANA 611	—
Light Gull Gray	C315 Light Gull Gray FS16440	Gloss, FS-calibrated	For early-war USN upper surfaces

Tri-color masking note: The sharp demarcation between Sea Blue uppers and Intermediate Blue fuselage sides is where Mr. Color’s lacquer durability shines. Spray Sea Blue first, let it cure 24 hours, mask, spray Intermediate Blue. The Sea Blue won’t lift or react. With acrylics, this two-step masking sequence can be nerve-wracking.

Natural Metal Finish — USAAF 1944-1945

For bare-metal P-51D Mustangs, late P-47D Thunderbolts, and B-17G Flying Fortresses:

This is Mr. Color’s signature application. The Metal Color line was purpose-built for this:

Role	Paint	Accuracy	Tips
Gloss black base	Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black	Essential foundation for Metal Color	Smooth, glossy first step
Aluminum (base)	C218 Aluminium (Metal Color)	Standard aircraft skin tone	Spray over black, buff to sheen
Bright panels	C211 Chrome Silver (Metal Color)	Fresh, polished panel look	Wing leading edges, cowling
Warm panels	C213 Stainless (Metal Color)	Slightly weathered tone	Engine nacelle surrounds
Exhaust-stained panels	C212 Iron / C214 Dark Iron	Exhaust and gun port tones	Aft fuselage near exhaust
Anti-glare panel	C33 Flat Black	Accurate flat black	Mask after NMF curing
Seal coat	C155 Super Clear	Protects NMF before masking	—

NMF tip: The key to realistic Metal Color finishes is panel-by-panel variation. Don’t spray the entire airframe with one shade. Use C218 as your 80% base, then selectively spray C211, C213, and C212 on individual panels before buffing. Reference photos of real bare-metal aircraft show surprising tonal variation across the skin.

Also available: C377 Aluminized Silver FS17178 — a non-buffable metallic that’s easier to work with but less realistic than the Metal Color line. Good for quick builds where you want NMF without the multi-step process.

Overall Glossy Sea Blue — USN Late War

For late F4U-1D and F4U-4 Corsairs, late F6F-5 Hellcats, and F8F Bearcats:

Role	Paint	Accuracy	Tips
Glossy Sea Blue (overall)	C365 Gloss Sea Blue FS15042	Direct ANA 623 match in correct gloss finish	One bottle, correct color and sheen
Insignia White (markings)	C316 White FS17875	ANA 601	Mask and spray national insignia
Interior Green	C27 Interior Green	ANA 611	Standard cockpit color

C365 is one of the best Glossy Sea Blue representations available in any brand. The gloss lacquer formula produces the correct deep, lustrous finish without needing a separate clear coat — though you can add C155 Super Clear if you want an even glassier surface for decals.

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Tips for Using Mr. Color

Thinning

Mr. Color is a lacquer paint. The correct thinner is:

• Mr. Color Thinner (T-101, T-102, T-103, T-104) — available in 50ml through 400ml sizes. T-104 (400ml) is the best value. This is the safe, consistent choice.
• Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (T-106, T-108) — contains a retarder that helps the paint self-level for an even smoother finish. Highly recommended for large panels and final coats. Many experienced modelers use Leveling Thinner exclusively.
• Generic lacquer thinner — hardware-store lacquer thinner works but is more aggressive and can attack plastic if too heavy. Use with caution and test first.
• NOT Tamiya X-20A, NOT water, NOT isopropyl alcohol. These are not compatible with Mr. Color.

Thinning ratios:

• Airbrushing: Thin 1:1 to 1:1.5 (paint to thinner) for standard coverage. Use Leveling Thinner for the smoothest results. Spray at 15-20 PSI.
• Brush painting: Mr. Color is usable from the bottle but benefits from 10-20% thinner plus Mr. Color Retarder for extended working time.
• Metal Color: Thin sparingly — these are already thin. Add 10-15% thinner maximum. Over-thinning causes poor metallic particle distribution.

Drying and Curing

Mr. Color lacquers dry extremely fast — touch-dry in 5-10 minutes, handleable in 15-20 minutes. Full cure takes 24-48 hours. The fast flash-off means less dust trapping in your finish. Key notes:

• Wait 24 hours before masking over cured Mr. Color — the lacquer solvents need time to fully gas out.
• Mr. Color can be safely masked with Tamiya tape after 24 hours. No lifting.
• Metal Color needs 48 hours before buffing. Rushing this step leaves finger marks in the finish.

Common Issues

Strong fumes: This is non-negotiable — use a respirator (organic vapor cartridge) and spray booth or open window. Mr. Color lacquer solvents are significantly more aggressive than Tamiya’s alcohol-based acrylics or Vallejo’s water-based acrylics. A well-ventilated spray booth is essential, not optional.

Crazing over acrylics: Mr. Color lacquer solvents can attack underlying acrylic paint if it’s not fully cured. Never spray Mr. Color over fresh acrylics. If you want to use Mr. Color over acrylics, wait at least 72 hours for the acrylics to fully cure, and mist a light first coat to avoid solvent attack. Better yet: use Mr. Color throughout, or spray acrylics over Mr. Color (that’s always safe).

Paint too thick/stringy: Mr. Color paints thicken in the bottle over time as solvent evaporates. If the paint has become thick, add thinner to restore it — it’s the same chemistry. Shake well after adding thinner. Old bottles that have partially dried out can be rescued this way.

Finish is too glossy for military subjects: Most Mr. Color military colors dry to a semi-gloss finish, which is shinier than real military paint. Apply a final coat of C182 Flat Clear to kill the gloss, or C181 Semi-Gloss Super Clear for a subtle satin that approximates worn military paint.

Compatibility

Mr. Color lacquers sit at the top of the “strong over weak” layering hierarchy:

• Under Mr. Color: Can be sprayed over bare plastic, primer, or other fully cured paints. Mr. Surfacer 1000/1200/1500 is the ideal primer.
• Over Mr. Color: Virtually anything is safe — acrylics (Vallejo, AK Interactive, Tamiya), enamels, oils, enamel washes. The cured lacquer film is impervious to weaker solvents.
• Clear coats: Mr. Color clear coats (C155, C181, C182) are widely used even by modelers who paint with other brands — the lacquer formula self-levels better than acrylic clears.
• Caution: Don’t spray heavy wet coats of Mr. Color lacquer over acrylics or enamels. Mist coats first.

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This reference covers the complete Mr. Color range included in our database as of early 2026. GSI Creos periodically releases limited-edition and collaboration colors not listed here. For equivalent colors in other brands, see our cross-reference charts or browse the Tamiya, Vallejo, AK Interactive, and Mission Models reference pages.

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